Tuesday, April 26, 2005

We do the Watusi... and we're seven feet tall!





In the picture, chaotic Nairobi Inter city Bus Stand. The 'picturesque view from Gaianthiwa Lodge and photo of Kamau (right) and another Gainthiwa member of staff

Some of you might remember that old campsong:

Oh we're from Nairobi
And we're on the destiny????? (doubt this was the word, but I was too young to make sense of the song)
We do the watusi
and we're seven feet tall

Well last week I was in Nairobi. I didn't do the watusi, and didn't see any seven feet tall folk. But Nairobi was cool. Literally maybe more like cold on the first day. This was my second trip to Nairobi, though the first time I spent less than twenty four hours. Nairobi is a bustling modern city with skyscrapers and slums. It somehow reminds me of Johannesburg. Maybe only because it's so modern, yet so African. You'll see the guys in the suits and leather jackets next to the Maasai with red hair and red blankets.

The song continued:

The cannibals may eat us
But they'll never beat us
Coz we're from Nairobi
And we're on the ball!

Nairobi has a reputation of being one of the most dangerous cities in Africa. Travellers are always warned not to arrive in Nairobi at night. I arrived early morning at about 5:30 a.m. I had studied my guidebook well, and memorised the name and address of a popular backpackers hotel so I wouldn't have to look like I didn't know where I was going. Anyone asked I was from Nairobi, and on the ball ;-) So I spent one night at Hotel Terminal, a rundown, cheap but overpriced roach motel, but with very pleasant, helpful staff. That was the first time I had ever seen cockroaches just crawling casually all over the place. I felt like they would run off with my bags if I didn't keep an eye on them.

Anyway I had two phone numbers of people I knew in Nairobi. I needed to find some locals to hang with so I could know what I was doing and where I was going fast.
After a few hours I found one of them, a friend from Kampala, who was on the exact same beat as I was - shopping for her business. I knew I had to stick to her like glue.

So she invited me to move to her hotel, but warned me that there were no sit-down toilets! Me! Been there done that - no sweat. So I moved to an even cheaper cheapie hotel for traders like me. US$3.30 a night! Gianthiwa guesthouse with its walls that badly needed a paint job, shared squat toilets that no one ever remembered to flush, shared showers, but on the bright side - there was running water so the toilets could flush if you really wanted to do that, but no one really wanted to, and low and behold hot water anytime day or night, and there was security - the manager, Kamau, a big strapping Kikuyu man with dyed teeth, stood at the door every night to ensure the safety of his guests.

Anyway to cut a long, long, long story short. I spent about 10 days travelling - 4 in Nairobi, 4 in Dar Es Salaam, and two more in Nairobi on my return. Though I planned my trip to Nairobi from Kampala well and arrived in the morning, I had no control over the trip from Dar back to Nairobi and arrived at about midnight. I had the misfortune of sitting next to a lecherous cannibalistic wolf of man, who had bought me some cashew nuts, a Coke and an apple, and had figured that by midnight that he was going to eat me and invited me to share a hotel room with him, you know since I was new to Nairobi. I pushed him aside and said "I know where I'm going!" and walked away singing to myself "Coz I'm from Nairobi, and I'm on the ball". I could see Kamau the Kikuyu guard looking out for me, smiling on the stoop of his rundown hotel. "Mzungu, you're back."

176 comments:

Leledacuca said...

Hey, I just found out what the "Watusi" is. It's not a dance at all, the "Watusi" is a tribe from Rwanda. The famous Tutsis from the Hutu/Tutsi war/genocide of 1994. Look how those 'colonisers' turned a tribe into a dance!

The exact origin of the Tutsis is not certain. Tutsis were traditionally considered a Hamitic people, however such notions are not generally accepted by the academic community today. Colonial scholars believed that the Tutsi came from East Africa, possibly Sudan, Uganda or Ethiopia, in c1400, to settle at first round Lake Kivu. This was the beginning of the native kingdoms of Rwanda and Burundi, under a Tutsi mwami or king.
The Tutsi can be spectacularly tall, often 7 ft (2.1 m) in height. This compares with the Twa (also from Rwanda), traditionally portrayed as short, and the Hutu (also from Rwanda), of medium height. Such differences may well be attributed to nutritional factors (this is not the generally accepted view, though, but is most common among Marxists and post-modernists). Physical differences are almost as stratified within the Tutsi group as between the Tutsis and the Hutus; although some Tutsi are much taller and have sharper noses than most Hutus, most of the former are indistinguishable from the average Hutu.

Both Germany (before WWI) and Belgium ruled the area in a colonial capacity. It was Belgian colonialists who created the notions of two different races rather than castes. When the Belgians took over the colony in 1916 from the Germans, they felt that the colony would be better governed if they classified the different races in a hierarchical form. They felt that the Hutu were children who needed to be guided, and saw the Tutsi as the superior race. In fact they couldn't believe that the Tutsi were part of the African race at all. They thought that they had immigrated from somewhere else, or were survivors of the lost continent of Atlantis. This "invented" superiority by the Belgians sparked and increased hatred of the Tutsi by the Hutu, and lead to many cultural conflicts, including the Tutsi Genocide.
(Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tutsi)

Leledacuca said...

Hey Jamdown, I have photos which I'll have to send you. Actually I have lots of pics at my yahoo space. I'll send you the link

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